Traversing Taormina

A Sicilian Holiday

By Julie Leventhal | Photography courtesy of Belmond

Taormina, the Sicilian Saint-Tropez, delights visitors and locals alike with its luxury boutiques along the famous Corso Umberto, amazingly fresh seafood restaurants, and the beautiful Isola Bella, a postcard-worthy island you can reach by foot or catamaran. Instagram-perfect photos are guaranteed here. While the entire island of Sicily is brimming with history, beautiful beaches to explore, and stunning architecture like the Valley of the Temples in Agrigento, my weeklong visit included only the east coast. It was my first international trip with a (ten-month-old) child in tow, so long car rides were not included. The itinerary, curated after extensive research, was the perfect mix of exploring, relaxing, shopping, drinking, and eating while taking in the best of eastern Sicily.

Where to Stay in Taormina

Belmond, Villa Sant’Andrea is an enchanting seaside accommodation with oversized suites and balconies uniquely positioned on the Ionian Sea. This is undoubtedly the “it” spot along the water. Their beach club and outdoor restaurant is the perfect place to enjoy a relaxing afternoon and a Sicilian blood orange Campari. They have a lovely small spa, a kids club filled with games and toys, and many guest activities, including the chance to sail away on a catamaran to see the Blue Grotto, Mermaid Bay, Mazzaro Bay, and Cape Taormina. Snorkel or swim right off the boat or pop a bottle of champagne, turn up the music, and live la dolce vita.

Guests of Villa Sant’Andrea also have access to the pool at the Grand Hotel Timeo, their sister property, in the center of the old town. Belmond’s restaurant offers indoor and al fresco seating, live music, and excellent local cuisine. What stood out to me was the five-star service. Everyone on their team, from their assistant head concierge, Diego Gualtieri, to their guest relations manager, Giulia Casella, went above and beyond to make our stay enjoyable, from sending small baskets of treats to the room to suggesting and organizing top tours and restaurants, and even to giving my daughter a little souvenir backpack with her name on it. These special touches make a property stand out and make you want to return.

Four Seasons is the place to stay for those looking to splurge and live their best White Lotus life. Perched high up on a cliff overlooking the sparkling sea below, you’ll uncover all your favorite spots from the series and be in a premier location for walking around the old town. If you can’t stay here, as reservations are coveted, book a table at Piazza IX Aprile for a peek inside while you enjoy a tasty dinner and drinks.

The arrival at Atlantis Bay hotel, which sits in a lovely location on the water’s edge, is a memorable one. With wall-to-wall windows, you feel like you are on a cruise ship, creating an instant feeling of relaxation. Large suites with comfortable terraces and a workstation make this a great place to stay if you are nomadic and fortunate to live a remote-work lifestyle. The hotel offers organized tours like the Ape Calessino (tuk tuk) tour, which whisks you away along the winding roads to the town of Taormina, the Madonna della Rocca church, and nearby Castelmola while you enjoy a bird’s-eye view of the sea below.

Where to Eat and Drink

La Cambusa in Giardini Naxos is a must. This smart-casual restaurant, about a fifteen-minute drive from Taormina, serves a great selection of reasonably priced pastas and fish in a lively local setting.

While my stroller didn’t make it down the stairs to the upscale bar at Morgana Lounge, the see-and-be-seen crowd did, and great music reverberated through its walkways.

Al Saraceno was our favorite spot for dinner and sunset. Perched high above the city close to Madonna della Rocca, you can’t beat the views, the pizza, and the hospitality.

Down a small stairwell centrally located in the city, Tischi Toschi is a little gem offering fantastic local delicacies. A family-run restaurant that is always crowded (make a reservation in advance), it specializes in Sicilian dishes like Pasta alla Norma, caponata, and delicious cannolis.

Their beach club and outdoor restaurant is the perfect place to enjoy a relaxing afternoon and a Sicilian blood orange Campari.

Mount Etna

Europe’s most impressive volcano, the still-active Mount Etna, looms over Taormina. It also provides rich soil for nearly 180 small-batch vineyards. Unfortunately, with the limited quantity of wine produced, almost none of the wines make it to the US unless you join their makers’ wine clubs. It’s best to take a guided tour if you’ll be drinking your way through, but there are also beautiful places to hike and picnic, and in the winter, you can ski from the top. Particularly interesting are the vast lava fields and unique souvenir items made of lava you can purchase from local shops as you rise in elevation along your drive. Many of the vineyards require reservations for tastings, so plan accordingly.

Day Trip from Taormina

Wake up early and head south to the Catania Fish Market. This is Sicilian local life at its best! The sights, sounds, and smells of the vendors are truly memorable as the flavors of the south really emerge here. If you are a bit adventurous, organize a food crawl and try a few things from each stall. Wander the city center and then end your Catania visit at one of the many bakeries, such as Pasticceria Savia on the southeastern side of Catania, an institution since 1897 and a favorite for their cannolis and arancini. Wash it all down with an espresso to get your energy up for the rest of the drive.

Continuing south, it’s worth a stop at the Neapolis Archaeological Park in Syracuse, home to a fifth-century-BC Greek theater (the largest in Sicily), a Roman amphitheater, and the Ear of Dionysus, a large cave with extraordinary acoustics. If your time is limited, I found the Greek theater in Taormina more enjoyable because it’s right in the center of town with amazing views. In contrast, much of the theater in Syracuse has been reconstructed to be used for concerts, so that new look takes away from the historical feel I was expecting. Still, spending time at both ancient sites is worthwhile. 

Along your journey toward the Mediterranean, you’ll soon arrive in one of my favorite spots, Ortygia. Along with the park, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and this labyrinth of cafés and cathedrals draws crowds from around the world to experience its magical sunsets and delicious Sicilian food. Wandering around this charming area, you’ll uncover beautiful buildings, including the baroque Cathedral of Syracuse and the long-standing Museo dei Pupi (puppet museum). Since we were traveling with a ten-month-old, this was a highlight of the day. We explored the puppet laboratory, perused the many puppets on display, and saw a live performance at the Teatro dei Pupi. The entire show was in Italian, yet the puppets kept my daughter’s attention, and she watched, laughed, and clapped through the play, which, interestingly enough, included a primarily adult crowd. Afterward, make your way to the Fountain of Arethusa and stroll the Lungomare Alfeo with its many cafés, ample live music, and endless places to enjoy the sunset.

With more time and sans child, I would have continued to Ragusa, Noto, Agrigento, and Palermo, but we decided the best thing to do was keep it simple with fewer hotels and no long drives. It was a good decision. We found it easy to enjoy the beach, shop our way through the beautiful upscale boutiques and gourmet shops, go on our own cannoli crawl around Taormina, eat granita, enjoy the grounds and playground at Villa Comunale (a small landscaped garden), and try various Sicilian specialties at local restaurants. The stroller quickly became a vehicle used to carry shopping bags and souvenirs! Watching a sunset, drinking Sicilian wine, and enjoying a delicious dinner was the best way to end the day on our family vacation. Perhaps it’s not quite the White Lotus adventure you binge-watched on Netflix, but it was still a perfect Sicilian holiday.

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Visit Belmond.com to learn more or book your stay at Belmond, Villa Sant’Andrea resort.