Contemporary Comfort Food

A Conversation With Chef Karyn Tomlinson

Interview by Lian Pickens | Photography courtesy of Myriel

“After college, I started working on my garden, and that’s when it clicked for me,” says Chef Karyn Tomlinson, who graduated with a history degree from Northwestern in 2007. Perhaps it was her fascination with the past that fueled her love for nostalgic, elevated comfort food as she pivoted to attend the prestigious Le Cordon Bleu cooking school in Paris just a few years later. Tomlinson may not have always known she wanted to pursue a career in the culinary field. Still, she has made up for lost time since making the switch and opening her renowned St. Paul, Minnesota, restaurant, Myriel, at the height of the COVID-19 pandemic. “I realized how food connects us to the land, to each other, and to our communities,” she continues. “Cooking is about more than just feeding people. It’s about connecting around the table, building relationships, and celebrating culture. That’s how I knew food was the career path for me.”

VIE was thrilled to catch up with Chef Tomlinson, who was named one of the Best New Chefs of 2024 by Food & Wine—who also named Myriel the No. 9 Best Restaurant in America last year—thanks to her dedication to exceptional food and hospitality alongside her team.

VIE: How has the local food scene in Minnesota influenced your cooking? Are there specific ingredients or inspirations you draw from the community?

Chef Karyn Tomlinson: The local food scene in Minnesota has really shaped my cooking. I love celebrating what’s grown here, like beans, grains, and fresh produce. Working with local farmers is inspiring, and I get excited about what’s in season. My grandma’s famous apple pie is a big influence, too. I always try to preserve what I can from the summer harvest so it can be enjoyed all year long.

VIE: What do you consider the most essential qualities in a successful dish? Is it more about technique, ingredients, or the experience it provides to the diner?

CKT: You can’t really separate the technique, the ingredients, and the experience. They all work together. A successful dish needs conviction and should only have what’s necessary, nothing extra. It’s about the philosophy behind it and having a strong brand. I never put technique first; it’s always about making sure the dish tastes good and connects with the diner.

VIE: After about fifteen years in the culinary world, do you believe that food has the power to bring people together in ways that go beyond just sustenance? Could you share a memorable story of how a meal you prepared had a more profound impact on someone or a group?

CKT: Absolutely, food has the power to bring people together in ways that go beyond just sustenance. For me, the farmers I work with are like family. At Myriel, we try to honor their work, and when they come in to eat, it’s amazing to be able to show them firsthand how their efforts translate into the dishes we serve. It’s a special moment for everyone, to realize the full circle of the food and the care that went into it. It’s not just about feeding people; it’s about showing respect and appreciation for all the hands that make it possible.

You can’t really separate the technique, the ingredients, and the experience. They all work together. A successful dish needs conviction and should only have what’s necessary, nothing extra.

VIE: Le Cordon Bleu is world-renowned for its rigorous training. What was the most valuable lesson you took away from your time there, and how has it influenced your cooking philosophy?

CKT: Le Cordon Bleu taught me the importance of using excellent ingredients and working clean and organized. One of the biggest lessons was being pushed to be faster and more efficient. It was challenging, but it really shaped how I approach cooking now. I believe that working with quality ingredients and maintaining a disciplined, efficient environment is key to creating great food.

VIE: Your story of opening Myriel during the pandemic is inspiring. What were some of the most unexpected challenges you faced while starting a restaurant during such uncertain times, and how did you overcome them?

CKT: Opening Myriel during the pandemic was definitely risky, but it also taught me a lot about sensitivity. We had to be mindful of people’s comfort levels and respect the uncertainty everyone was dealing with. Gathering, whether with my team or the community, became increasingly important. We leaned on our supportive neighbors, which made a huge difference. Before we officially opened, we even offered meal kits for families just to give them something comforting during such a difficult time. It was all about adjusting and being flexible with the situation.

VIE: Have you had any key mentors in your culinary journey? How important is mentorship for young chefs today, and do you see yourself taking on the role of a mentor to upcoming culinary talent?

CKT: Mentorship has been incredibly important to me in my culinary journey. It’s all about honesty and having someone to steer you along the way. Chef Thomas Boemer encouraged my food and helped me find my style. Then there’s Magnus Nilsson from Sweden. He taught me the importance of intentionality and having one clear purpose behind every dish. Growing up, I also learned a great deal from Jacques Pépin, whose cookbooks and shows made cooking feel practical and approachable. He’s always been someone who looks to mentor younger cooks, and I hope I can do the same for others.

VIE: If you could give one piece of advice to a young aspiring chef or anyone looking to break into the culinary world, what would it be?

CKT: My best advice would be to be willing to work hard and do every task to the best of your ability, no matter how small it may seem. Always ask questions and be open to receiving feedback. It’s how you grow and improve. The culinary world is about constant learning, and one must remain humble and hungry for knowledge.

VIE: Was there ever a time in your career when you wanted to give up your dream of becoming a head chef? A time you were discouraged? If so, how did you break through the urge to give up?

CKT: There were definitely times when I questioned myself, especially during my training. I didn’t always know exactly what I wanted to be, but I knew I wanted to work in a specific type of environment, one that felt right for me. A leadership position is challenging, no doubt, but it’s also incredibly rewarding.

VIE: In the restaurant world, there’s often an emphasis on perfection. How do you personally define “excellence” in the kitchen, and how do you foster that sense of excellence with your team?

CKT: For me, excellence isn’t about perfection; it’s about the pride my team feels in what they’re doing. They have to be proud of the food they’re sending out, and that pride is what drives us to grow. Excellence is measured by the quality, the taste, the presentation—the whole experience. It’s about constantly improving and ensuring that everything we do is both good and meaningful.

VIE: When you’re not working, what do you like to do in the St. Paul area?

CKT: When I’m not working, I love being outside. Whether it’s running or cross-country skiing in the winter, I try to take advantage of the seasons. I’m also really into art, so I enjoy checking out galleries or working on my own projects. And when I’m in the mood to relax, there’s a diner in Hopkins that is always a go-to.

VIE: Do you have any projects or events coming up that you are particularly excited about?

CKT: I’m really excited about some upcoming private dining room events we’re planning, ticketed-themed gatherings that create unique ways for people to connect over food. I also recently signed with a literary agent, which is a big step for me. I’m working on a cookbook where I’ll be sharing recipes and stories. Plus, I’m working on a film project and am consulting, helping guide younger chefs as they strive to break into the industry. It’s all about sharing knowledge and creating new experiences.

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Visit MyrielMN.com and follow @myrielmn and @katomlinson on Instagram to learn more or book a reservation.