The Voyage of Fingal

Scotland’s Floating Luxury Hotel

By Jordan Staggs | Photography courtesy of Fingal Hotel

Did you know that in Scotland, you can spend the night on a historic steamship that is part of the Royal Yacht Britannia Trust? In our last issue, we invited readers on a quick trip to explore the country’s capital, Edinburgh. Now, the history and scenery continue as we head just north of its City Center to the waterfront neighborhood of Leith and Fingal Hotel.

Originally commissioned by the Northern Lighthouse Board (NLB) in 1963, the steamship Fingal spent nearly forty years in service, ferrying lighthouse keepers, supplies, and maintenance crews to the essential lighthouses on Scotland’s western and northern coasts. With the help of ships like Fingal, seafaring vessels are protected by lighthouses and buoys along more than 6,000 miles of coastline in Scotland and the Isle of Man, totaling around 200 lighthouses, 175 lit buoys, and 25 unlit beacons today.

Upon Fingal’s maiden voyage in the 1960s, NLB secretary W. Alastair Robertson told J. A. Campbell Brown, director at Blythswood Shipbuilding Company from which the Board commissioned her, “The ship proved herself to be most comfortable and a very good sea boat, indeed, it is true to say that all concerned are most satisfied with her and look forward to her performing many years of useful work in the service.”

In the four decades that followed, lighthouse keepers could count on Fingal and the NLB’s two other working ships to bring vital supplies to their remote outposts, along with the replacement lighthouse keepers who would take over the post for around three weeks at a time. One might say it was the ship’s first hospitality role, but it wouldn’t be her last.

In 2000, Fingal retired from the NLB and was purchased by a private owner, who renamed her Windsor Castle and kept her in working condition on the River Fal in Cornwall, England. She was later sold to the Royal Yacht Britannia Trust in 2014. The Trust’s primary focus is the preservation and care of Her Majesty’s Yacht Britannia, part of the Core Collection of the National Register of Historic Vessels, which is also berthed in Leith and attracts around 300,000 visitors per year. A royal residence of Her Majesty the Queen for over 40 years, Britannia is a major tourism hot spot, but overnight stays are not permitted there. The Trust’s idea for another vessel to take on that role became reality in 2016 after Fingal underwent a two-year, five-million-pound renovation to become the luxury, five-star floating hotel it is today.

Fingal Hotel now houses twenty-three guest cabins and suites, plus the over-the-top Skerryvore Suite, a ballroom-style event space, The Lighthouse Restaurant & Bar, and The Bridge private dining room. Guest rooms are beautifully appointed with sleek wood, comfortable furnishings, and porthole windows. Each bears the name of one of the Stevenson Lighthouses found along Scotland’s coast. Finishing touches also celebrate the ship’s history with the Northern Lighthouse Board, including old-fashioned room keys attached to small buoys, postcards and photographs depicting Scotland’s lighthouses, the compass rose etched on the ceilings, and coastal maps embroidered into the headboards. The bathrooms are luxurious, clad in tile and featuring Noble Isle bath amenities, while Scottish heritage textiles by designer Araminta Campbell create a warm and comfortable feel in each luxury cabin and suite.

The Lighthouse Restaurant & Bar is on the second level of the ship, overlooking the Albert Dock Basin, Water of Leith, and Ocean Drive. Open to the public for breakfast, afternoon tea, and dinner, the sumptuous dining room invites guests to experience rich interiors, impeccable services, and a seasonal rotating menu. Head Chef Pedro Barreira, Restaurant Chef Andrea Sendon Alonso, and the talented galley team make each dinner memorable with a five-course tasting menu featuring produce from local suppliers, including crab from The Belhaven Smokehouse in Dunbar, wild ingredients from foragers Coeur Sauvage, and more. Ordering family-style accompaniments for the table is encouraged alongside entrées such as Loch Fyne halibut, Tweed Valley lamb rump, or the 10-ounce dry-aged Campbell’s Gold ribeye steak. The Lighthouse sommelier team is on hand to select the perfect wine pairings for each guest.

When it’s time for a summertime toast, head to the seasonal Moët Deck aboard Fingal, where Moët & Chandon hosts a daily Champagne tasting for guests at 17:43 (the year the Moët Champagne House was founded). During the season, listen for the bell ringing to signal it’s time to gather for a leisurely afternoon glass of ice-cold bubbly, expertly crafted cocktails, and sharing boards featuring artisan cheeses, Scottish fish, or vegetarian antipasto.

Speaking of making toasts, special occasions become a part of the ship’s history when you book The Ballroom for a private dinner, wedding reception, or other event. With space for 60 seated guests or 100 standing, The Ballroom features a private bar, a balcony area for music or an MC, an impressive high ceiling, and a retractable skylight for events under the stars. From brand launches to meetings and parties, the hotel’s in-house event team can help clients create a truly one-of-a-kind experience aboard the historic vessel.

Unsurprisingly, Fingal Hotel has amassed many awards and accolades since opening, including No.1 Luxury Hotel and No.1 Small & Boutique Hotel in the UK by TripAdvisor’s Travelers’ Choice Awards Best of the Best in 2024. It has also earned the top five-star award, plus two AA Rosettes for Lighthouse Restaurant & Bar.

For lovers of history, adventure, and nautical luxury, board Fingal for a Scottish stay like no other.

— V —

Visit Fingal.co.uk to discover more and book your stay, and head to VisitScotland.com to start planning the rest of your trip.