From Old Town to New

A Love Letter to Edinburgh

By Jordan Staggs

Scotland is a place that lingers in the soul. Some foreigners might even feel it there before they visit, providing inspiration, wild beauty, and mystery through photos, literature, and film, just waiting to be discovered in person. Many Americans can trace their ancestry back to the UK’s rugged coastlines, moors, and highlands, and if you tell your friends you’re planning a trip, chances are several of them might tell you which clan their relatives once hailed from. For me, a top-of-the-bucket-list trip became reality this spring, and we’ll be sharing moments from it in a series of stories throughout VIE’s summer issues, starting with this one.

Easily the highlight of my time in Scotland—although there were many incredible moments—was spending a few days exploring the capital city of Edinburgh. Its more “modern” history can be traced back to the early Middle Ages, but humans have inhabited the rocky hills just off the North Sea since the Mesolithic era. The Old Town, which now includes some of the capital’s most well-known sites, such as the Royal Mile and Edinburgh Castle, began forming in the twelfth century, though most of its iconic winding streets, alleys, and multi-story stone buildings of today were built throughout the 1500s-1600s. Can you guess when the New Town was built? For us Americans, the idea of anything “new” being built in the 1700s is enough to get a laugh.

The Balmoral’s exterior and signature clock tower

If you’re looking for a luxury stay in Edinburgh with all the Scottish charm, The Balmoral is the premier hotel. A monument unto itself, the 1902 building on the edge of the Old and New Towns was originally the North British Station Hotel, as it sits right above Edinburgh Waverley train station. The clock in the hotel’s signature tower is even set three minutes fast—historically so passengers had a few extra minutes to ensure they caught their trains. The five-star Rocco Forte hotel’s 187 guest rooms, including 20 suites, boast luxe Scottish heritage design by Olga Polizzi, Irene Forte skin care and bath products, and stunning vistas of Old Town, Edinburgh Castle, Princes Street, the Scott Monument, and more.

Although ultimate luxury is the name of the game at The Balmoral, it’s balanced by a warmth and hospitality that make travelers feel welcome and comfortable from the moment they step into the grand lobby. A fire crackles in the hearth while the doormen greet both new and returning guests, assist with luggage, and direct you to accommodations or meeting rooms, the Palm Court tea room, the Brasserie Prince, or the SCOTCH Whisky Bar (which holds over 500 unique varieties of Scottish whisky from distilleries in the Highlands, Lowlands, Islands, Islay, and Speyside).

A meal at Brasserie Prince is not to be missed while staying at The Balmoral or even just visiting Edinburgh. It celebrates a blend of French-style cuisine and Scottish ingredients, from seafood to fresh produce, all in a lively, upscale tavern setting. Executive Chef Paul Hart and his team shine alongside the friendly front-of-house staff. Standout dishes included: the fruits de mer featuring Scottish oysters, langoustine, scallops, Eyemouth crab, prawns, and Balmoral smoked salmon; confit de canard; venison tournedos with Scottish wild mushroom, foie gras, and truffle; gnocchi au gratin (my top pick); halibut with Jerusalem artichokes; espresso tart with pralines; white chocolate and rhubarb meringue; and even a white chocolate ice cream topped with Osietra caviar. Indulgence is the order of the day, no matter what time you visit—but don’t worry, you can walk off the calories while heading out for a nightcap or exploring the city the next day.

Edinburgh Castle is, naturally, a must-do if it’s your first visit. The medieval structure stands proudly above the city and served as the seat of Scottish power from the time of Malcolm III in the eleventh century until the mid-1600s. Book your tickets in advance, because they tend to sell out, especially in the busier seasons. Inside its walls, you’ll find a small community of structures, including battlements and barracks, the royal banquet hall, dungeons, and residences where figures like St. Margaret, Mary Queen of Scots, and Oliver Cromwell once lived. Some highlights include the Scottish Military History Museum, St. Margaret’s Chapel (the oldest building in the city), the Honours of Scotland crown jewels, and Mons Meg, a massive medieval war cannon gifted to King James II by the Duke of Burgundy in the 1450s. While Mons Meg has long been retired (thankfully), visitors can still see and hear the one o’clock gun fired from the Argyle Battery every day except Sundays, Christmas Day, and Good Friday.

Edinburgh Castle as seen from Princes Street Gardens | Photo by TTstudio/Shutterstock

While the castle is certainly the most famous landmark in Edinburgh, the city’s museums and cultural sites expand far beyond it—and most of them are free to visit! The National Galleries of Scotland in Edinburgh are all complimentary except for special events and collections, including the National Gallery, two Modern Galleries, and the National Portrait Gallery. The Royal Botanic Garden, spanning seventy acres north of the City Centre, is one of the premier botanic gardens in the world, dating back to the seventeenth century and still home to important research conducted daily.

Another free museum that is worth a quick visit is The Writers’ Museum, tucked away just off the Royal Mile. Visitors can find it by ducking into Lady Stair’s Close—a close in Old Town Edinburgh is the word for the narrow, historic alleyways that lead to inner courtyards, townhomes, pubs, and stairways to other levels of the hilly city. There are dozens of them, mostly named after historic residents or figureheads. Lady Stair’s Close will take you to Lady Stair’s House, a quirky seventeenth-century townhouse named for one of its residents, Elizabeth Dalrymple, Dowager Countess of Stair. Now home to The Writers’ Museum, the townhouse is open for visitors to explore and enjoy the works and histories of Scottish authors Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Louis Stevenson.

If you couldn’t guess, literature is kind of a big deal in Scotland, and Edinburgh celebrates it wholeheartedly through a plethora of museums, monuments, bookstores, and more. Even Edinburgh Waverley station is the only train station in the world named after a book—Sir Walter Scott’s Waverley novels. One of the most entertaining ways to learn more and immerse yourself in the history of literature in the capital is the Edinburgh Literary Pub Tour. Guests will join their intrepid tour guides on a jaunt through Old Town to enjoy a series of stories, recitations, and, yes, drinks! (EdinburghLiteraryPubTour.co.uk)

The Writers’ Museum celebrates the lives of Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Louis Stevenson. If you look down while outside, you’ll find quotes from many notable Scots etched into the paving stones (below). | Photo by Jeff Whyte/Shutterstock

For the film aficionados or anyone looking for a short break from all the walking, the Scotsman Picturehouse offers a unique, adorable cinema experience. This hidden gem can be found within The Scotsman Hotel and features plush red seating, art deco details, and a charming lounge area perfect for sipping a beverage while you wait for your movie to start. This was an excellent afternoon sojourn for resting tired feet after a busy morning of exploring and climbing many hills and stairways. Wuthering Heights (2026) was the feature of the day, which seemed to perfectly encapsulate the mix of history, literature, and pop culture Edinburgh is known for.

Speaking of pop culture, any Harry Potter fan will surely know they have to visit Victoria Street, whose sloping pedestrian street is lined with colorful shops and restaurants that inspired the famous Diagon Alley in J.K. Rowling’s novels. You can even pop into The Elephant House cafe’s Victoria Street location for a Butterbeer! All around the city, we ran into Harry Potter-themed tour groups, saw gravestones with names like McGonagall and Thomas Riddell, found a dedication to the author outside the Edinburgh City Chambers, and took a peek into the J.K. Rowling suite at The Balmoral. Just looking around the city’s many spires, historic buildings, and castles, it’s easy to see how both the author and film production teams were inspired to create the now-iconic Wizarding World.

While the City Centre has much to see and do, don’t miss a short jaunt over to landmarks such as Calton Hill, where you can explore monuments and the Calton Café with an incredible view of Edinburgh and the sea beyond. Arthur’s Seat is also a famous spot for vistas, especially popular with those who love to hike (go at sunset for a truly breathtaking scene!). And for another literal walk through history, visit the Palace of Holyroodhouse, the official royal residence of Scotland. The ruins of Holyrood Abbey are something to behold, while the palace, gardens, and the King’s Gallery offer even more art, history, and culture within Holyrood Park.

Across the city, Dean Village is a popular stop for a morning walk on your way to the National Galleries or Royal Botanic Gardens. The picturesque former millers’ village is bisected by the Water of Leith, which powered its eleven mills until the nineteenth century. Grab a drink and biscuit from the Edinburgh Coffee Bike in the village and then stroll along the Water of Leith Walkway, which reveals a network of monuments, viewing points, historic architecture, and gardens.

Like most of Edinburgh, the pathway feels like a secret, just waiting to lead explorers to something unexpected and beautiful with every turn. It’s truly a city of discovery, where past, present, and future converge in a way that teaches visitors about themselves, too. For those whose ancestry traces back to Scotland, or who find inspiration in its nature, history, and art, regardless of heritage, I leave you with this quote by Sir Walter Scott, etched in stone outside The Writers’ Museum: “This is my own, my native land.”

— V —

After a few days soaking in all the history, literature, and beauty of Edinburgh’s City Centre, consider taking a day or two to visit Leith, the city’s coastal suburb to the north. We’ll see you there in the next issue of VIE! Head to VisitScotland.com and RoccoForteHotels.com/hotels-and-resorts/the-balmoral-hotel to start planning your trip.