fbpx vie magazine subscribe button

Gentlemen Prefer Jewels

By Anthea Gerrie

Who says only women like to adorn themselves with fabulous baubles? The first book devoted entirely to jewelry for men proves otherwise, fielding pictures of gorgeous males sporting diamond skulls, sapphire-spotted leopards, ruby-studded bows and arrows, and heavy gold serpents to accessorize everything from tuxedos to T-shirts, biker jackets, and jeans.

This is serious bling from top designers who command thousands for their bespoke pieces, but demand for couture gems is as old as the hills, says James Sherwood, author of Jewelry for Gentlemen. “Men of power have adorned themselves with gold and gemstones since the time of the ancients,” explains the fashion writer, who credits the celebrities who have succeeded the pharaohs, emperors, and maharajas of times past as the power brokers of today, bringing back precious stones as a symbol for men who want to show they have it all.

Given the shift away from formal wear, it’s no longer only about the tiepins, signet rings, watches, and cuff links to which male jewelry was relegated by the mid-twentieth century. Rock ’n’ roll emboldened the boys to start dressing up again like the dandies of old, and today’s peacocks wear necklaces, bracelets, and brooches simply dripping with gems. “Hip-hop, gay marriage, and gangster style have all opened the door to diamonds for day,” explains Sherwood. Indeed, once rappers showed that even a tooth could be an excellent vehicle for a diamond, the world’s most high-profile sportsmen—David Beckham, Cristiano Ronaldo, and Lewis Hamilton among them—took up the challenge, and today they field more sparkles than their wives and girlfriends.

A Victorian diamond twelve-ray star brooch from Bentley & Skinner
A Victorian diamond twelve-ray star brooch from Bentley & Skinner, centered on a 0.65-carat old brilliant-cut diamond (c.1870). Tailoring by Henry Poole & Co. | Photo courtesy of Andy Barnham

Sherwood’s book charts the evolution of male bling over the past century with some remarkable pictures of pieces that might seem to be the stuff of folklore. It turns out what must surely have been the most lucrative commission in Cartier’s history was from a man wanting a very special necklace for himself. In 1928, the Maharaja of Patiala commissioned a breathtaking multistrand creation featuring no fewer than 2,929 diamonds arranged around a whopping 235-carat central stone.

But it was a British king—the Duke of Windsor, who briefly served as King Edward VIII before renouncing his throne for love—whose jewelry collection broke auction records in 1987. Once he had fallen for Wallis Simpson, he used his favorite pieces as a vehicle to express his feelings for her. Love tokens like the interlocking Cartier ring in three shades of gold inscribed “Darling Wallis” and a secret courage mantra in the “Hold Tight” message he had inscribed on one of his diamond cuff links are shown in the book, along with some rare and highly prized estate gems of the czars. “Any piece of jewelry connected to the doomed Russian Romanov royal family is highly prized . . . collected and worn like religious relics,” comments Sherwood.

When it comes to love tokens, it would be hard to find a more overtly romantic piece than Wartski’s diamond-encrusted quiver packed with diamond-and-ruby arrows; they’re intended to be removed and pinned on a lover’s lapel. Today’s couples show their love more overtly, like Harry and Meghan, whose identical friendship bracelets first told the world they were an item. Celebs have led the way in adorning a well-turned male wrist—Marlon Brando wore a silver ID bracelet in A Streetcar Named Desire and Paul Newman a gold one in Sweet Bird of Youth. Now, says Sherwood, “Men such as Johnny Depp, Steven Tyler, and Keith Richards stack their wrists with beads and heavy metal,” while the hip-hop community has embraced diamond bracelets ever since P. Diddy was seen rocking an art deco version in Beverly Hills back in 2004.

While it’s good news that Cartier, Tiffany, Bulgari, and all the other classic marques are upping their selection of jewelry for men, the book shines in showcasing the independent designers drawing the eyes—and wallets—of men bent on cutting-edge adornment. They include Stephen Webster, whose mythical creatures and mask motifs would look right at home on Game of Thrones; Theo Fennell, (he of the diamond skulls) with a client list which includes David Beckham and Elton John; Evan Yurman, design director of his parents’ New York firm David Yurman; and the hugely charismatic Brazilian jeweler Ara Vartanian, who travels the world for rare stones and credits his muse, Kate Moss, for his most inspired designs. They include an octopus two-finger ring whose diamond-paved tentacles wrap around the digits—almost as scary as Webster’s shark jaw ring whose rows of diamond teeth bite the finger from both sides. Creations like this are one reason London- and Rodeo Drive–based Webster, who made matching wedding bands for Madonna and Guy Ritchie, has been christened “Lord of the Rings.”

— V —


Jewelry for Gentlemen is published by Thames & Hudson and is now available wherever books are sold. ThamesandHudson.com

Anthea Gerrie is based in the UK but travels the world in search of stories. Her special interests are architecture and design, culture, food, and drink, as well as the best places to visit in the world’s great playgrounds. She is a regular contributor to the Daily Mail, the Independent, and Blueprint.



Read Responsibly

December 2023, Holiday Issue, Christmas, VIE Magazine, Lisa Burwell, Cover, Gift Guide, Holidays
Marisol Gullo, Not Too Shabby, Home, Decor, Interior Design, Santa Rosa Beach, Churchill Oaks
VIE Magazine September 2023 Jay Mercado
VIE Magazine - The Art & Design Issue November 2021
VIE Magazine January 2021 Special Commemorative Edition
VIE Magazine September 2020 Wanderlust Issue, Fancy Camps, The Idea Boutique
VIE Magazine August 2020 Art & Culture Issue, Nathan Alan Yoakum Art
VIE Magazine - Architecture & Design Issue - July 2020
VIE Magazine - Decor and Home Issue - June 2020
VIE Magazine May 2020 Entertainment Issue, Leslie Odom Jr
VIE Magazine - April 2020 Culinary Issue
VIE Magazine March 2020 The Fashion Edit, VONDOM, Alys Beach Fl, Digital Graffiti, Tres Chic, isidro dunbar Modern Interiors, Digital Graffiti Festival
VIE Magazine February 2020 Health & Beauty Issue
VIE Magazine - Travel Issue - January 2020 - Tanzania Safari Cover
VIE Magazine - Women's Issue - December 2019 - Tina Brown Cover
VIE NOV19 Goodness Issue
VIE Magazine, September 2019 Art & Culture Issue, Paul Hanninen
VIE Magazine - August 2019 - The Architecture and Design Issue
VIE Magazine - July 2019 - The Artist Issue
VIE Magazine - June 2019 - Fashion Edit
VIE Magazine - May 2019 - Culinary Issue
VIE Magazine - April 2019 - The Health & Wellness Issue
VIE Magazine - Special Entertainment Edition - March 2019
VIE Magazine February 2019 Luxury Homes & Technology Issue with Robbie Antonio of Revolution Precrafted
VIE Magazine - January 2019 - Southern Sophisticate Issue Cover
VIE Magazine - Special Anniversary Travel Edition - December 2018
VIE Magazine - The Goodness Issue - November 2018
VIE Magazine - The Art & Culture Issue - October 2018
VIE Magazine - Home & Garden Issue - September 2018
VIE Magazine - August 2018 Animal Issue
VIE Magazine - July 2018 Architecture & Design Issue - Subscribe to the magazine!
VIE Magazine - June 2018 Travel & Tech Issue
VIE Magazine - May 2018 Couture Issue
VIE Magazine - The Culinary Issue - April 2018 Cover - Chef James Briscione and Brooke Parkhurst
VIE Magazine - The Entertainers Issue - March 2018
VIE Magazine - February 2018 Destination Travel Issue
VIE Magazine - January 2018 Health & Beauty Issue
VIE Magazine, The Sophisticate Issue, December 2017
VIE Magazine - November 2017 Art & Culture Issue
VIE Magazine - October 2017 Home & Garden Issue
VIE Magazine | September 2017 | The Stories and Storytellers Issue
VIE Magazine - The Adventure Issue - August 2017
VIE Magazine - July 2017 - Art & Artist Issue
VIE Magazine - The Voyager Issue - June 2017
VIE magazine 2017 March-April Cover South Walton Fashion Week
VIE Magazine - January/February 2017 - The Health & Beauty Issue
VIE Magazine - Nov/Dec 2016 The Sophisticate Issue
christian siriano vie magazine september october 2016 vie magazine
the modern minimalist issue
Summertime!
the culinary and couture issue march april 2016 vie magazine
the voyager issue alys beach vie magazine january february 2016
cultural issue vie magazine november december 2015
home and garden issue vie magazine september october 2015
the art and style issue vie magazine july august 2015
the wedding issue 2015 May June vie magazine
the food and fashion issue vie magazine march april 2015
the travel issue vie magazine january february 2015
the music issue vie magazine 2014 november december
The Animal Issue vie magazine september october 2014
the home and garden issue vie magazine july august 2014
the wedding issue vie magazine may june 2014
emeril lagasse food and fashion vie magazine
the men's issue january february 2014
the music issue november december 2013 vie magazine
the home and garden issue 2013 october september
the wedding issue vie magazine july august 2013
the artist issue may june 2013 vie magazine
the food and fashion issue march april 2013
the men's issue january february 2013 vie magazine
The Holiday Issue
the love issue july august 2012
the all american summer may june 2012
the entertainment issue march april 2012
the fashion issue vie magazine winter 2011
the home and garden issue vie magazine fall 2011
the anniversary edition vie magazine summer 2011
the wedding issue vie magazine spring 2011
vie magazine the holiday issue 2010 Dec
vintage swimsuits vie magazine 2010 Fall
judith march designer vie magazine summer 2010
wedding giveaway vie magazine spring 2010
holiday gift guide vie magazine winter 2009
emarketing explosion vie magazine fall 2009
tribute to mother's day vie magazine summer 2009
james and robert redford vie magazine spring 2009
zz top vie magazine fall winter 2008
project dreams vie magazine new york fashion week
Sign-up for VIEmail

Sign up for VIEmail


X

A LIFESTYLE